So that's why it's like this

Shortly before our cruise ended, the very talkative woman next to us explained that the Havila Polaris isn't a cruise ship at all, it's a ferry. The Hurtigruten line used to be the only provider of ferry services and cargo shipments up the coast of Norway. The Norwegian government didn't like the idea of a monopoly so they granted Havila permission to run the same route and deliver goods, mail and short hop passengers as well. So Havila doesn't really care about the passenger experience. Bored? So what? We aren't here to entertain you.

That also explains why the food isn't terribly good, nor the service. My dairy allergy proved to be a point of contention with several waitresses in the dining room and, apparently, with the chef who refused to let us book the farewell dinner because she "didn't want to have to deal with allergies." So dairy-free, gluten-free? Stuff it.

Apparently Hurtigruten does offer one cruise that sails out of Southampton, England that is a proper cruise with the usual cruise ship amenities. That sounds nicer, but hand to heart, I will never set foot on another cruise ship.

We did have a couple of favorites on board like Michael, the bartender who does lovely things with Aquavit. There is a waiter, Stefan, and a waitress, Rachel, who are very nice and Seseel, the sommelier, is quite entertaining. The woman who acts as a sort of cruise director but who I think is on the Expeditions staff, can actually be quite rude. And smiling is clearly optional with this staff.

We've met some lovely Brits with whom we've shared conversation and that has been enjoyable but, by and large, this has been a voyage where we're counting the days till it's over. Yay! only one and a half days left!

Our last night aboard we heard an announcement that there were Northern lights off the port side. We rushed up to see them and I guess they were there, but they really just looked like streaky clouds. Around midnight another announcement was made that they were off the starboard side. Again, they were there, but more gray than green and not the light show we were hoping for. Of course, we were told at the beginning of the cruise that the Northern Lights often appear grey to the naked eye but in a camera lens, they will show up green. So although I was underwhelmed on the day, in Bruce's photos they look wonderful.

Lovely after the fact, but it didn't make up for the 12 days at sea feeling like we were an inconvenience to the crew and staff. If I ever talk about taking another cruise, just shoot me.