The Oldest Church

In our travels we've visited a number of old churches but this lovely little church in Canterbury is officially the oldest in the English-speaking world, continuously in use since 579AD. The oldest part of St Martin’s church was built during the Roman occupation of Britain. It is uncertain whether the original building was a church, a mausoleum, or something else, but in 579 the building was restored by King Æthelberht, a pagan, for the use of his new wife Bertha, who was a Christian princess from Tours, France. When Pope Gregory sent a Benedictine monk named Augustine to spread Christianity, he took over the church and expanded its footprint.

Further expansions were made in the 12th and 13th centuries and a bell tower was added in the 14th century. The tower contains three bells, the largest of which was made in 1393. The bells are still rung for Sunday service.

Certainly the history is fascinating, but there's something about the church that was wondrous. From the moment I walked into the churchyard I was enthralled.

Much of the composition of the walls is flint, a common building material in Canterbury. Its dark, almost black, color is so striking. Because it's such a hard stone and very difficult to cut, when it is used in building it's used in rock form. Also used in some of the walls were remnants of stone from the time of the Roman occupation.

St. Martin's church was dedicated to Martin, Bishop of Tours, who lived in the 4th century. There is a window in the church made from mediaeval glass from Chartres Cathedral showing Martin as a young Roman soldier, cutting his cloak in half to share with a beggar. Legend says that Jesus came to him in a dream that night and told him that the beggar was, in fact, Jesus. He blessed him and reminded him that "whatsoever you did for the least of these brothers and sisters, you did for me." Martin then stopped being a soldier and dedicated his life to following Christ. Later, to his surprise and against his wishes, he was made Bishop of Tours. His feast day is November 11; that date was chosen by the French, in his honor, to be the date when the armistice would be signed ending WWI.

On display on the south wall is a replica of a 14th century Chrismatory, a container for holy oils. The original, now in the Canterbury Cathedral crypt, is one of only two that survived the Reformation.

The long flat bricks on the northern wall are what remain of the original Roman wall of the building, dating to the 4th century. It was astounding to be able to touch a wall built over 1600 years ago.

This ancient font was constructed from a well head in the Canterbury Cathedral Cloisters, made between 1155 and 1165.

One of my favorite features was the squint. These were often installed in great houses so that the occupant could spy on people in adjoining rooms without being seen. In the case of St. Martin's church, the squint was put in place so that lepers, who were not allowed in the building, would be able to see the mass being celebrated.

The squint is the little hole behind the metal grate, which is there to prevent birds and small animals entering the church.

I left the building and walked around the churchyard.

From the outside of the church you can see clearly the many different building materials used in different periods and for repairs.

Everyone visits Canterbury Cathedral, of course, but I would heartily recommend a visit to St. Martin's church as well.