The Most Beautiful Bookstore in the World

That title sounds like hyperbole, doesn't it? Well, having visited Livraria Lello in Porto, I'd have to say I agree with the assessment.

I had to borrow this image from the ticketing website because at virtually no time during the day will you find it void of people. In fact, the central staircase is such a popular posing point that only the magic eraser on my phone allowed me to nab this photo.

The bookstore's exterior is a bit of a mix of neo-gothic and art nouveau.

The bookstore was opened in 1906 by Lello Brothers. Over the years it became a tourist attraction in its own right and in 2026, it was declared an official National Monument. In 2015, the company started charging admission in order to pay for both the upkeep and the wonderful staff that is employed there. There are several tickets available: silver, gold, and platinum. The silver and gold tickets get you entry and a voucher for a book. The platinum ticket is where the fun is. For your €50 ticket you get a €50 voucher for books and a guided tour of the Gemma Room.

This room contains special collections and many old first editions, many of which are signed. The special collection of the moment is the personal library of Amy Winehouse. I learned that Ms. Winehouse was a voracious reader of many different genres, that she made notes in the margins of her books, and when she particularly loved a book or a passage from the book, she would kiss the page, leaving a red lip print behind. Another special collection on display was from Brazenhead Books, a famous underground bookstore in NYC.

It was the first edition section that blew my mind. There were first editions of The Wizard of Oz, Alice in Wonderland, Moby Dick, Madame Bovary and many others, most of which were too fragile to handle. I'm a big fan of George Orwell, so was thrilled to be that close to a first edition of Nineteen Eighty Four.

There were first editions of Pride and Prejudice which were wonderful illustrations of the prejudice of the day against female authors. Jane Austen's name was not mentioned as author, instead the book was credited as "by the author of Sense and Sensibility."

A signed copy of The Picture of Dorian Grey by Oscar Wilde was there and, happily, not too fragile to be opened.

(Gutted that they came out blurry!)

On the back wall of the Gemma Room is a photo taken on the night of the opening of the bookstore in 1906. The men pictured - all men, of course, as women would not have been welcomed - are all authors or prominent members of Porto society. The odd purple glow emanates from the neon lights that are built into the armchair in front of it.

The ceiling tiles in the Gemma area are original from 1906. They look to be very fine porcelain.

It has been rumored that J.K. Rowling used the Livraria Lello as inspiration for a library in Harry Potter. She says that's not true. The people here take the denial with a grain of salt because J.K. Rowling was married to a Portuguese man at the time and they lived in Porto. Furthermore, she used to visit the bookstore frequently and often sat in a nearby cafe writing what would turn out to be the Harry Potter books. Whatever the truth of that rumor, there is no denying that Livraria Lello is a breathtaking place, and definitely worth a visit.

Kudos and thanks to Beatriz, my knowledgeable and charming guide to the Gemma Room.